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Quality Parts Affordable Prices No Long UK Distribution Chain

Parts Shipped from the Manufacturer with No Long UK Distribution Chain we Offer Very Competitive Prices

If you have any doubts or need any help at all, our friendly and knowledgeable staff are always on hand to give you technical advice about the product or to help identify the correct part for your vehicle. We have software available that allows us to identify what parts are fitted to any particular vehicle - all you need do is supply us your vehicle registration details.

Showing 1–10 of 2946 results

  • ACCELERATOR CABLE REPAIR REPLACEMENT KIT

    ACCELERATOR CABLE REPAIR REPLACEMENT KIT (2)

    [gallery size="large" type="rectangular" ids="18182,18181,18180,18183,18205,18206,18207,18208"] Accelerator Cable Repair Replacement Kit A throttle cable is the most important part of the throttle in a car engine. It is a braided steel cable that connects the gas pedal to the throttle body. When the gas pedal is pushed, it opens the throttle valve and lets air into the engine. Over time, a throttle cable can become loose due to excessive use and in extreme cases, it may get ripped and render the throttle totally dysfunctional. Although the easiest solution for a ripped throttle cable is to replace the ripped one with a new one, it can be pretty expensive. It is possible however to easily repair your ripped throttle cable if it is ripped at the throttle end. Step-by-step guide for throttle cable repair. Step 1 - Remove the Throttle Cable Removing the throttle cable requires good concentration to prevent damage to the throttle body when pulling the cable out. First, open the bonnet of your car and locate the throttle actuator either on the throttle body or the carburetor. Pull the throttle arm downward to loosen the throttle cable. Use a flat-tip screwdriver to ease out the loosened cable from the body. When the cable is free from the throttle body, carefully remove the throttle cable pin that is connecting the cable with the body. Now, remove the pedal end of the cable by removing the pedal end pin of the throttle cable from the gas pedal. Finally, remove the ripped throttle end of the cable from the pin. It might still be attached by a few cable strands. Remove it by pulling it out. Step 2 - Cut Copper Tubing Using a tubing cutter, cut around 1 inch of copper tubing. The diameter of the tubing you choose will depend on the throttle cable tip you have. Step 3 - Sand Copper Tubing After you have around 1 inch of copper tubing, sand it inside-out carefully. This will help remove any oxides that could negatively affect the solder joint in the next steps. Step 4 - Drill a Hole in the Tubing Drill a small hole about 1/8" from the end of the tubing. Make sure that you drill the hole in just one side of the tubing and it does not go all the way through the other side. When the drilling is completed cut the tubing to 1/4" in length. Step 5 - Prepare Throttle Cable Take the broken or snapped throttle cable and cut off the broken end. This will shorten the cable a bit but will not greatly affect the throttle mechanism. Now, insert the 'new' throttle cable into the hole in the copper tubing and pull it out of the bigger opening. Fray the end of the throttle cable so that it remains stable inside the tubing during soldering. After fraying, pull back the throttle cable enough so that only its end remains inside the copper tubing. Step 6 - Solder and Finish the Job Apply a lot of flux to the tubing and throttle cable to prevent oxidization during soldering. Now, using pliers to hold the cable, solder the throttle end with the copper tubing until the tubing is filled with solder. You will know there is enough solder when some of it starts crawling up the throttle cable. Stop right then. Your throttle cable has been repaired and is ready to use.
  • Automotive Switches 12v Small Electrical Toggle Push Pull

    Automotive Switches 12v Small Electrical Toggle Push Pull (6)

    [gallery type="rectangular" ids="18195,18197,18198,18199,18200,18201,5603,18202,18194"] Automotive Switches 12v Small Electrical Toggle Push Pull Small Electrical Switches Toggle Push Pull Merit Malta A comprehensive range of toggle switches in an industry standard package. These toggle switches are available with lever, rocker, paddle and slide actuators. Rated at up to 5 amps 125vac or 28 vdc switches can be provided with solder lug or straight, right angled and vertical pc or surface mount terminations. Electrical “Plug” – for use in a variety of applications – cars, van, buses, tractors etc To Suit “Socket” part number 114320 – PLUS Electrical “Socket” – for use in a variety of applications – cars, van, buses, tractors etc Terminals meet DIN Standard 46 244. Terminal sizes are 6mm x 1.0mm (Brass). Panel Hole Diameter is 18.5mm – Part Number 114320. Fits both RHD (UK) and LHD (European) Models
  • Battery Isolator Switches 12v and 24v Heavy Duty

    Battery Isolator Switches 12v and 24v Heavy Duty (3)

    [gallery type="rectangular" ids="18187,18230,18231,18232,3908"] Battery Isolator Switches 12v and 24v Heavy Duty

    Battery Isolator Switches 12v and 24v Heavy Duty

    Merit-Malta is one of Europe’s leading manufacturers of automotive 12v or 24v Battery Isolators – switches and electrical accessories. Founded in 1966 by Merit-Werk Co KG as a small assembly unit, on the beautiful island of Malta in the heart of the Mediterranean Sea, Merit Malta today are an independent manufacturer exporting to over 50 countries. Commended as a pioneer of investment in Malta’s industrial development, Merit-Malta are today a reputable manufacturer and supplier of automotive electrical switches and accessories to the world automotive market. Suppliers to many of the leading aftermarket brands, Merit also operate a worldwide network of sales agents, distributors as well as direct customer accounts. They have earned a reputation for quality, reliability and service, and their friendly and outgoing philosophy towards their customers has built a business that is founded on long term business relationships. Today Merit supplement their business through commercial arrangements with other leading manufacturers of automotive products to offer their customers an ever expanding range of aftermarket electrical switches and accessories. These parts are not old, re-cycled, used, second-hand, ex-car boot sale, end-of-line or bankruptcy stock – but brand new parts. Keep_Driving works directly with leading European Automotive, OEM and Aftermarket manufacturers. Their parts are delivered straight to us and then sent directly to you – there is no distribution chain or “middle-men” – hence the very competitive prices we offer. All products are designed and manufactured to the original OEM specification with each product being fully tested and quality assured prior to leaving the factory. Keep_Driving is always glad to help with technical questions about our products specifically or automotive issues in general – all part of the service we offer.
  • Bosch Lucas Diesel Engine Fuel Shut Off Solenoid Valves

    Bosch Lucas Diesel Engine Fuel Shut Off Solenoid Valves (2)

    [gallery type="rectangular" ids="18176,18170,18169,18175"] Bosch Lucas Diesel Engine Fuel Shut Off Solenoid Valves A solenoid valve is an electro-mechanical valve controlled by an electric current. The electric current runs through a solenoid, which is a wire coil wrapped around a metallic core. A solenoid creates a controlled magnetic field when an electrical current is passed through it. This magnetic field affects the state of the solenoid valve, causing the valve to open or close. Diesel Engine shut-off solenoids transport diesel fuel from a machine's fuel tank to its engine. A diesel fuel shut-off solenoid is attached to the machine's main electrical system, which can monitor and detect abnormal temperatures or mechanical malfunctions. Should something go wrong, the electrical current running to the solenoid will be interrupted, causing the solenoid valve to close and shutting off the supply of diesel fuel to the engine. Solenoid Sensors. Unlike other solenoid valves, diesel fuel shut-off solenoids are attached to sensors capable of receiving and interpreting electronic signals from the vehicle’s main electrical system. Once sensors detect a problem the current running to the solenoid coil will be automatically shut off. When the solenoid coil is deactivated, the force of the spring pushes the stopper back into place against the inlet pipe, sealing the pipe and shutting off the flow of diesel fuel to the engine. What Happens if Something Goes Wrong? If something happens the current running to the solenoid can be interrupted. This will cause the solenoid valve to close resulting in the supply of diesel fuel to the engine to stop and hence the engine, without a supply of fuel will also stop. When the solenoid coil is activated, the magnetic field draws the pin back, which pulls the stopper back and breaks the seal with the inlet pipe, allowing the diesel fuel to enter the solenoid valve.
  • Brake Cables Disc Drum Right Left Assemblies Front

    Brake Cables Disc Drum Right Left Assemblies Front (1340)

    33479 (3) 33476 (4) 33475 33475 (2) 33469 33469 (2) 33455 (6) 33455 (5) Brake Cables Disc Drum Right Left Assemblies Front Please note - buying Hand Brake Cables can sometimes be problematical and in some instances the ebay compatibility listing should not be relied upon as it provides a guide only. The hand brake cable design is largely dependent on the braking system fitted to the vehicle e.g. Lucas Girling or Bosch and may vary if the vehicle has disc or drum brakes and sometimes if ABS is fitted. We will try and list, where ever possible, additional information to help buyers identify the part they need by including, in the listing, the cable OEM part number (Original Equipment Manufacturers part number e.g Ford, Vauxhall, BMW etc) cable length, what vehicle the cable fits i.e. drum or disc brakes, with or without ABS. If you have any doubts or need any help at all, our friendly and knowledgeable staff are always on hand to give you technical advice about the product or to help identify the correct part for your vehicle. We have software available that allows us to identify what parts are fitted to any particular vehicle - all you need do is supply us your vehicle registration details. These parts are not old, re-cycled, used, second-hand, ex-car boot sale, end-of-line or bankruptcy stock - but  brand new parts. Keep_Driving works directly with leading European Automotive, OEM and Aftermarket manufacturers. Their parts are delivered straight to us and then sent directly to you – there is no distribution chain or "middle-men" – hence the very competitive prices we offer. All products are designed and manufactured to the original OEM specification with each product being fully tested and quality assured prior to leaving the factory.
  • Brake Hoses

    Brake Hoses (981)

    Brake Hoses
  • Clutch Cables UK RHD European LHD Auto Adjust Manual

    Clutch Cables UK RHD European LHD Auto Adjust Manual (25)

    [gallery type="rectangular" ids="18216,18220,15888,15862,18213,18215"]   Clutch Cables UK RHD European LHD Auto Adjust Manual Clutch cables will vary in length depending on which side of the vehicle they connect to the pressure plate. Left Hand Drive clutch cables will not fit Right Hand Drive vehicles – please read the listing details for further information and if in any doubt please contact us to discuss – we are always pleased to help with technical advice as this is part of the service we offer We will try and list, where ever possible, additional information to help buyers identify the part they need by including, in the listing, the cable OEM part number (Original Equipment Manufacturers part number e.g Ford, Vauxhall, BMW etc) cable length, what vehicle the cable fits i.e. drum or disc brakes, with or without ABS. If you have any doubts or need any help at all, our friendly and knowledgeable staff are always on hand to give you technical advice about the product or to help identify the correct part for your vehicle. We have software available that allows us to identify what parts are fitted to any particular vehicle – all you need do is supply us your vehicle registration details. These parts are not old, re-cycled, used, second-hand, ex-car boot sale, end-of-line or bankruptcy stock – but brand new parts. Keep_Driving works directly with leading European Automotive, OEM and Aftermarket manufacturers. Their parts are delivered straight to us and then sent directly to you – there is no distribution chain or “middle-men” – hence the very competitive prices we offer. All products are designed and manufactured to the original OEM specification with each product being fully tested and quality assured prior to leaving the factory.
  • Diesel Engine Glow Plugs

    Diesel Engine Glow Plugs (76)

      [gallery type="rectangular" ids="18313,18311,18307,18306,18222,18310"] Diesel Engine Glow Plugs Diesel engines, unlike petrol engines which rely on a spark to ignite the air-fuel mixture, function due to the auto-ignition of diesel fuel when subjected to high pressures. Under high pressure, the temperature of the diesel fuel increases to a point where the fuel self-combusts. In cold weather however, this temperature is not always achieved and Diesel Engine Glow Plugs assist by heating the air-fuel mixture to assist in cold starting. Put simply, Diesel Engine Glow Plugs are small heaters. AET Tolmin (Iskra) – produces a wide range of either single or twin filament diesel engine glow-plugs for diesel cold starting. Please note – whilst the Diesel Engine Glow Plugs listing and compatibility details are given as accurately as possible it may be that you will require a different part number for your engine as the Diesel Engine Glow Plugs design may well be different for different engines as it will depend on what fuel delivery system the manufacturer has fitted. Bosch fuel system may very well take a different product to a Lucas CAV fuel system for example. Information About Diesel Engines When temperatures drop, several things happen that can make a diesel hard to start. The oil in the crankcase thickens and at the same time, battery output drops, reducing the number of amps available to turn the engine over. 15W-40 multi-viscosity motor oil, a popular warm weather choice with many diesel owners these days, may become too thick when temperatures go below freezing or plunge to zero or below. 30- or 40- oils would definitely be too thick. The increased drag created by the cold oil can reduce cranking speed to the point where the engine may not generate enough cranking compression and/or fuel pressure to start the engine. If you are diagnosing a "hard to start" symptom, look to see if the oil is thick and globby as it may not be the correct viscosity for winter driving. Switching to a lighter oil such as a 10W-30 may be all that's needed to improve cold starting. If the engine isn't turning fast enough check the battery charge as well as the cable connections and the starter motor current draw. Problems in any of these areas can make any engine hard to start. If the battery is low, recharge it and check the output of the charging system.

    Diesel Engine Glow Plugs

    If slow cranking isn't the problem, perhaps there's something wrong with the Diesel Engine Glow Plug system. Most passenger car and light truck diesels have glow plugs to assist cold starts. The glow plugs are powered by a relay and timer that routes voltage to the plugs for a prescribed number of seconds. When the timer runs out, the relay is supposed to turn off the voltage. But relays sometime stick and continue to feed voltage to the glow plugs causing them to burn out. One or two bad glow plugs on a V8 engine might not cause a noticeable starting problem during warm weather, but it can when temperatures drop. Glow plugs can be checked by measuring their resistance or continuity. Excessive resistance or a lack of continuity would tell you the plug is faulty. When glow plugs have burnt out or are heavily coated with carbon or not receiving the correct start-up voltage, the engine will become progressively harder to start as temperatures drop. The engine will idle "roughly" and may produce white smoke in the exhaust for several minutes once it finally starts. If all the glow plugs are burnt at the end you should check the injection timing because it is probably over-advanced. Check to see if the glow plug module is providing enough power to the glow plugs by using a voltmeter to check each plug for the correct voltage when the ignition key is turned on. If no or a low voltage is detected then check the glow plug control module connections, including the earth and wiring harness. Glow plugs themselves can be checked by measuring resistance, replacing any plugs that read out of spec'. Hard starting can sometimes be caused by a glow plug module that fails to "switch-on" the glow plugs or doesn't keep the plugs on long enough, when the weather is cold. We have heard of control modules that do not keep the glow plugs on long enough for easy cold weather starting, with the "on-time" being sufficient for warm weather but not for cold weather.

    Fuel Problems

    Unlike gasoline, diesel oil is adversely affected by cold temperatures. Diesel is made of heavier hydrocarbons that turn to wax when temperatures drop. The "cloud point" or point at which wax starts to form for ordinary summer-grade No. 2 diesel fuel can range from 10 to 40 degrees. If the fuel tank contains summer grade fuel and temperatures drop, wax crystals can form in the water/fuel separator, causing a blockage. The cure here is to pull the vehicle into a warm garage so it can thaw out, replace the water/fuel separator as needed, then add an approved "fuel conditioner" additive to the tank (some manufacturers do not approve any additives or prohibit the use of specific ingredients such as alcohol that are found in some additives), or drain the tank and refill it with No. 1 diesel fuel. To prevent the same thing from happening again, you might install an aftermarket fuel heater. Water in the fuel is another problem that can cause starting and performance problems. Condensation that forms during cold weather is the primary source of contamination. Water that gets into the fuel tank usually settles to the bottom because water and oil don't mix. The water is sucked into the fuel line and goes to the filter or water/fuel separator (if the vehicle has one). Here it can freeze, causing a blockage that stops the flow of fuel to the engine. So if the filter or separator is iced up, the fuel tank needs to be drained to get rid of the water.

    Fuel Contamination

    Another difference with diesel fuel is that it tastes good to certain microbes, especially if there's water in the tank. Certain bacteria can actually thrive inside a diesel fuel tank, forming slime, acids and other creepy stuff that can gum up fuel lines, filters, injection pumps and injectors. Infected fuel often has a "rotten egg" odor, and leaves a black or green coating on the inside of fuel system components. The growth rate of most organisms increases with warmer temperatures, but some can thrive down to freezing temperatures. To get rid of a bug infestation, the fuel tank needs to be drained and cleaned. A biocide approved for this type of use should also be used to kill the organisms and to prevent their reappearance. The cleaning process should be followed by a fresh tank of fuel treated with a preventative dose of biocide. If the fuel lines and injection pump have also been contaminated, they will also have to be cleaned.

    Fuel Delivery Problems

    To start and run properly, injector timing has to be accurate. A quick visual inspection will tell you if the timing marks are lined up. Refer to the vehicle manufacturer's timing procedure if you suspect timing is off or the pump has been replaced recently. On newer diesels with electronic injection pumps or direct injection, you'll need a scan tool to make any changes. Air in the fuel can also be a cause of hard starting or a no start condition. Air can make the engine die after it starts, and make restarting difficult. Air can enter the system through any break in the fuel line or via a bleedback condition. To determine if air is the problem, install a clear return hose on the return side of the injection pump. Crank the engine and observe the line. Air bubbles in the fuel would tell you air is entering the inlet side of the pump. The injection pump itself is usually not the source of the air leak, so check the fuel lines and pump. A worn or clogged pump can also make an engine hard to start. If the condition has been getting steadily worse accompanied by a loss of power, and the engine has a lot of miles on it (more than 75,000), the underlying cause may be a pump that needs to be replaced. Before condemning the pump, though, check the fuel filters. Clogged filters can cause fuel restrictions that prevent the pump from doing its job properly. The primary water separator/fuel filter usually needs to be changed about every 30,000 to 40,000 miles, and the secondary filter about every 20,000 to 30,000 miles. Newer fuel systems with a single filter usually require service about once a year. If the filter has been neglected, chances are it may be restricted or plugged.

    Won't Start

    A diesel engine that cranks normally but won't start regardless of the outside temperature either has low compression or a fuel delivery problem. If compression is okay, check the fuel gauge (out of fuel?). Then check the fuel filters and lines for obstructions. If the injection pump isn't pushing fuel through the lines to the injectors, it may have a faulty solenoid. Listen for a "click" inside the pump when the ignition switch is turned on. No click means the solenoid and/or pump need to be replaced. If it clicks but there's no fuel coming through the injector lines (and the filter and lines are not obstructed), the pump is probably bad and needs to be replaced.

    Injector Problems

    Diesel injectors can suffer from the same kinds of ailments as petrol injectors, including varnish deposits, clogging, wear and leakage. Low sulfur diesel fuels are more likely to leave varnish and gum deposits on injectors, and also provide less lubrication so you might try an additive to keep things flowing smoothly. Operating at much higher pressures than petrol injectors, diesel injectors can suffer, over time, a drop in their opening pressure. Up to 300 psi is considered acceptable but more than 300 psi means the injectors should be replaced or reset back to their original operating specs. You'll need some type of tester to check the opening pressure of the injectors if you suspect this kind of problem. Dirty injectors will lean out the air/fuel mixture, causing a loss of power, rough idle and sometimes white smoke in the exhaust. Leaky injectors will richen the air/fuel mixture and cause black smoke. There are a couple of ways to find a bad injector on a diesel engine. One is to use a digital "thermometer" to check the operating temperature of each cylinder. A temperature reading that is lower than the rest would indicate a weak cylinder. If the compression is correct and within specification the the problem is likely to be restricted fuel delivery. Check using an ohmmeter to measure the resistance of the glow plugs whilst the engine is running. The resistance of the glow plug increases with temperature. If one or two cylinders are low you've very probably found the problem. If a glow plug normally reads 1.8 to 3.4 ohms on a hot, running engine, a reading of 1.2 to 1.3 ohms on a glow plug would tell you that cylinder isn't producing enough heat.

    What "Black Smoke" May Mean

    Black smoke is usually a sign that there is too much fuel and not enough air or the injector pump timing is incorrect and needs re-setting. One of the most common causes of this condition is an air inlet restriction. The cause may be a dirty air filter, a collapsed intake hose or even an exhaust restriction. Diesels are un-throttled so there is no intake vacuum to measure.

    What "White Smoke" May Mean

    White smoke usually occurs when there is not enough heat to burn the fuel. The un burnt fuel particles go out the exhaust and produce a rich fuel smell. It is quite common to see white smoke in the exhaust during cold weather until the engine warms up. A faulty glow plug control module can cause white smoke on engine start up. Low engine cranking speed may also produce white smoke. If white smoke is still visible after the engine has warmed up, the engine may have one or more bad injectors, retarded injection timing or a worn injection pump. Low compression can also be a source of white smoke. Air in the fuel system can also cause white smoke.

    Stalling Problems

    If a diesel stalls when slowing down it may indicate a lubrication problem in the injector pump. The first thing that should be checked is the idle speed. If low, it could prevent the pump governor from recovering quickly enough during deacceleration. Water in the fuel can cause stalling by making the metering valve or plungers inside the pump stick. Use of a lubricating additive may help cure this condition. If an additive doesn't help, the pump may have to be cleaned or replaced.
  • Disc Drum Brake Cable Assemblies Right Left Front Center

    Disc Drum Brake Cable Assemblies Right Left Front Center (1279)

    [gallery type="rectangular" ids="16628,16733,17352,17368,17356,17348"] Disc Drum Brake Cable Assemblies Right Left Front Center Buying Hand Brake Cables can sometimes be problematical and in some instances the ebay compatibility listing should not be relied upon as it provides a guide only. The hand brake cable design is largely dependent on the braking system fitted to the vehicle e.g. Lucas Girling or Bosch and may vary if the vehicle has disc or drum brakes and sometimes if ABS is fitted. We will try and list, where ever possible, additional information to help buyers identify the part they need by including, in the listing, the cable OEM part number (Original Equipment Manufacturers part number e.g Ford, Vauxhall, BMW etc) cable length, what vehicle the cable fits i.e. drum or disc brakes, with or without ABS. If you have any doubts or need any help at all, our friendly and knowledgeable staff are always on hand to give you technical advice about the product or to help identify the correct part for your vehicle. We have software available that allows us to identify what parts are fitted to any particular vehicle - all you need do is supply us your vehicle registration details. These parts are not old, re-cycled, used, second-hand, ex-car boot sale, end-of-line or bankruptcy stock - but  brand new parts. Keep_Driving works directly with leading European Automotive, OEM and Aftermarket manufacturers. Their parts are delivered straight to us and then sent directly to you – there is no distribution chain or "middle-men" – hence the very competitive prices we offer. All products are designed and manufactured to the original OEM specification with each product being fully tested and quality assured prior to leaving the factory.
  • Flame Heater Glow Plugs Diesel Engine Inlet Manifold Mounted

    Flame Heater Glow Plugs Diesel Engine Inlet Manifold Mounted (113)

    [gallery type="rectangular" ids="18223,18229,18349,18350"] Flame Heater Glow Plugs Diesel Engine Inlet Manifold Mounted 9v to 24v Flame Heater Glow Plugs inlet Manifold mounted agricultural construction lorries buses vans Iveco Fiat Ducato Peugeot Boxer Citroen Relay Iskra Hidira Slovenia Ford Case New Holland John Deere Massey Harris Massey Ferguson Fiat Agri Hurlimann Cummins Leyland Caterpillar Komatsu Laverda Lindner Clayson Perkins Renault Tractors McCormick Orchard Atlas Same Bomag Lamborghini KHD Deutz Fuchs Iveco Mengele Liebherr Magirus Deutz Atlas Copco ABG Demag M.A.N Alfa Romeo Renault Master Saviem Euromaster Eurocargo Volvo Penta Marine KHD Eisenwerke Bodini. AET Tolmin - Iskra - More About The Company AET Tolmin (Iskra) - produces a wide range of Flame Heater Glow Plug air preheating products for diesel cold starting. These products are inserted into the engine suction pipe and their basic function is to heat a specific quantity of suction air during diesel engine cold starting. One or two Flame Heater Glow Plugs are inserted into the engine inlet manifold. During diesel cold starting, the Flame Heater Glow Plugs heat part of the suction air with a "flame". Features of these systems - available for 12V and 24V applications. Cable connection and fuel flow rate are all according to the OE engine manufacturers requirements. Versions for turbo diesel engine and standard diesel engine. More commercial vehicles are being equipped with Flame Heater Glow Plug start systems to ease cold starting. Once the heating temperature has been reached, fuel enters the evaporator in the flame heater glow plug via a solenoid valve. In this way a flame is produced that heats the intake air and facilitates reliable, convenient and environmentally friendly cold starting, even at low temperatures. In commercial vehicle flame start systems, Iskra flame heater glow plugs contribute too quick, reliable engine starting that protects the engine — even at extremely low temperatures. Technical Features of Flame Heater Glow Plugs Inlet Manifold Mounted
    • Quicker starting even at extremely low temperatures
    • Only 15 to 20 seconds pre-heating time
    • Up to 6 minutes’ post-flame time
    • For 12 and 24 Volt electrical systems
    • Exactly matched to the respective type of engine: flame starter plug, electromagnetic valves and temperature sensors.• Quicker starting even at extremely low temperatures • Only 15 to 20 seconds pre-heating time • Up to 6 minutes post-flame time • For 12 and 24 Volt electrical systems • Exactly matched to the respective type of engine: flame starter plug, electromagnetic valves and temperature sensors ________________________________________ Section Through A Flame Glow Plug:____Flame Heater____________________________________ 1. Electrical connection 2. Insulation 3. Plug housing 4. Fuel connection 5. Fuel feed 6. Metering device 7. Evaporator sieve 8. Evaporator pipe 9. Electrically heated heater rod 10. Protective tube 11. Flame sleeve
    Sales of Iskra Flame Heater Glow Plugs Inlet Manifold Mounted Products on This Website The parts we sell are not old, re-cycled, used, second-hand, ex-car boot sale, end-of-line or bankruptcy stock. They are brand new parts, straight from the factory in Malta. As a business Keep_Driving works directly with leading European Automotive and Aftermarket manufacturers. Parts are delivered straight to us and then sent directly to you. There are no “middle-men” or long distribution chains. Hence the very competitive prices we offer. All products are designed and manufactured to the original OEM specifications. Each product is fully tested and quality assured prior to leaving the factory. Keep_Driving is always glad to help with technical questions about our products. These can be specifically about the products we supply or automotive issues in general. This is all part of the service we offer
  • Flashers Relays Electrical and Electronic 12v and 24v

    Flashers Relays Electrical and Electronic 12v and 24v (25)

    [gallery type="rectangular" ids="18347,18346,18343,18226"] Flashers Relays Electrical and Electronic 12v and 24v 12v and 24v Relays and 12v and 24v Flashers - Electrical, Electro Mechanical and Electronic. Normally Open, Normally Closed, Switching, Front Fog, Wash Wipe, Wiper Blades Heated Rear Screen, Lighting Driving Lights, Hi Beam, Low Beam, Main Beam Dipped Beam. Looking Inside a Relay If we were to open a relay, you would see an electromagnet coil, the switch, and a spring. The spring holds the switch in position until a current gets passed through the coil. The coil then generates the magnetic field which moves the switch on and off. Numbers or Letters on a Relay Looking at the diagram, we see the pinout of a typical 12V relay. Note that each pin is numbered. 85 and 86 are the coil pins while 30, 87, and 87a are the switch pins. 87 and 87a are the two contacts to which 30 will connect. If the coil is not activated, 30 will always be connected to 87a. You can think of this as the switch in OFF. When current is applied to the coil, 30 is then connected to pin 87. The great thing about relays is that you can set 87 and 87a to be either open or closed, depending on how you need the switch to work. If you want a closed relay, you will want to wire to 87a. If you want a normally open relay, you will wire to 87. Although most relays are labelled at the bottom, you can always find the 30 pin set perpendicular to the other pins for easy identification to the power source. Output for a Relay Realizing that 85 and 86 are the coil pins, these pins will be transferring the current through their coil. One of these will be used to ground your current, while the other will be connected to an accessory, or your point of current. 87 and 87a will be connected to your controlled accessories that you wish to turn on and off with your relay. 30 will then be the pin connected to your battery power.
  • Flexible Rubber Brake Hoses Front Rear Singles Pairs

    Flexible Rubber Brake Hoses Front Rear Singles Pairs (697)

    [gallery type="rectangular" ids="17892,17901,17894,17635,19473"] Flexible Rubber Brake Hoses Front Rear Singles Pairs The fluid in the car's braking system runs from the master cylinder to the brakes themselves mainly via rigid metal pipes. But there needs to be some flexibility in the system to allow the wheels to move in relation to the car body, whether for the purposes of steering or suspension. This is provided by fitting flexible brake hoses. Front and Rear Brake Hoses - Inner or Outer Axle - Centre Axle At the rear there is usually one hose if your car has a live axle or two if it has independent rear suspension. At the front of the car, these hoses run between the pipes and the brakes. The same arrangement is used at the rear if the car has independent rear suspension. But if it has a live axle, there is usually just one hose situated in the centre of the axle, linking the pipe from the master cylinder to the pipes leading to the rear brakes. If you suspect that you have a leak in the braking system, one possible source is the hoses, which should be checked straight away. Flexible Brake Hose checks If you are inspecting the front hoses, turn the road wheel on to full lock to give yourself a better view. For the rear hoses, you may find you need to use an inspection lamp to see them. Inspect the whole surface of the hose, looking for cracks and chafed or worn patches. Ask a friend to press the brake pedal while you feel the hose to see if it expands. If one of the hoses fails any of these tests, you need to replace it. At the same time it is safer to replace all the hoses because they will all probably be the same age.

    Three types of hose / brake connection

    If the hose is connected to the brake via a banjo connection, loosen the hollow bolt with a spanner.
    The hose may screw straight into the brake caliper, in which case use a spanner to unscrew it.
    Or the hose may be connected to the brake by the same sort of union as that found linking a hose to a pipe. Undo this connection using two spanners, one for each union
    If the hose is connected to the brake via a banjo connection, loosen the hollow bolt with a spanner. The hose may screw straight into the brake caliper, in which case use a spanner to unscrew it. Or the hose may be connected to the brake by the same sort of union as that found linking a hose to a pipe. Undo this connection using two spanners, one for each union.

    Brake Hose attachments

    The way in which the hoses are plumbed into the rest of the braking system depends on what they are attached to. If the hose joins a pipe, it will be secured to the bodywork by a bracket so that the hose cannot get damaged by flexing with the car's movements. The end of the hose has a metal union on it that passes through the bracket and is held by a nut on the other side. The hose joins to the pipe via a male and female union - the male formed by the hose and the female by the pipe. Where the hose runs into the brake assembly, there are three possible designs of connection. One is a banjo connection, in which the end of the hose consists of a metal ring. The ring is fixed to the assembly by a hollow bolt - hollow so that it will still allow fluid through to the brake. The two other alternatives are that the hose screws straight into the caliper, or that it is attached to the brake assembly by a union similar to that between the hose and the brake pipe. Before you start removing hoses, fit a plastic bag between the top of the brake fluid reservoir and its cap to minimize the loss of brake fluid. Also have a roll of cling film and some rubber bands at hand to cover up any holes that become exposed when you remove the hose. To undo a hose or pipe union, fit an open-ended spanner (or, better still, a split-ring spanner) to the female union. Fit another spanner to the nut-shaped section on the end of the brake hose union to hold it steady. Use the open-ended or split-ring spanner to undo the pipe union. Move the pipe out of the way, then undo the nut on the end of the hose and slide the hose out of the bracket. To free the hose at the brake end, use a ring spanner or a socket to undo the bolt on a banjo connection. Take care not to lose any sealing washers between the banjo and the hose or brake. If the hose is connected to the brake by a short brake pipe, use two spanners to undo the union in the same way as before. If the hose screws directly into the caliper, simply unscrew it to release the hose - watch out for a sealing washer. Brake Hose Image courtesy of Image courtesy of www.howacarworks.com
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  • 10-4707-4

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    £13.00

    Peugeot Partner – Citroen Berlingo
    Rear RH (Drivers Side) – Drum Brake Cable
    Will Not Fit Disc Brake Models
    **Please Note On Some Models This Cable May Be Chassis Number Dependent – If There Are Any Doubts About The Suitability Of This Cable Please Do Contact Us Before Purchasing And We Can Double Check Against Your Vehicle Reg’ Prior To Shipping**
    [Please check your vehicle chassis number as this cable only fits -from Chassis Break “ch08394” onwards – applies to both Berlingo and Partner Vans!!]
    Brake Cable Length 1850 / 1510mm
    Fits RHD (UK) and LHD (European) Models


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    Peugeot Partner Van 5 Rear Right Drum Brake Cable

    £13.00

    Peugeot Partner – Citroen Berlingo
    Rear RH (Drivers Side) – Drum Brake Cable
    Will Not Fit Disc Brake Models
    **Please Note On Some Models This Cable May Be Chassis Number Dependent – If There Are Any Doubts About The Suitability Of This Cable Please Do Contact Us Before Purchasing And We Can Double Check Against Your Vehicle Reg’ Prior To Shipping**
    [Please check your vehicle chassis number as this cable only fits -from Chassis Break “ch08394” onwards – applies to both Berlingo and Partner Vans!!]
    Brake Cable Length 1850 / 1510mm
    Fits RHD (UK) and LHD (European) Models


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    £13.00

    Peugeot Partner – Citroen Berlingo
    Rear RH (Drivers Side) – Drum Brake Cable
    Will Not Fit Disc Brake Models
    **Please Note On Some Models This Cable May Be Chassis Number Dependent – If There Are Any Doubts About The Suitability Of This Cable Please Do Contact Us Before Purchasing And We Can Double Check Against Your Vehicle Reg’ Prior To Shipping**
    [Please check your vehicle chassis number as this cable only fits -from Chassis Break “ch08394” onwards – applies to both Berlingo and Partner Vans!!]
    Brake Cable Length 1850 / 1510mm
    Fits RHD (UK) and LHD (European) Models


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    £13.00

    Peugeot Partner – Citroen Berlingo
    Rear RH (Drivers Side) – Drum Brake Cable
    Will Not Fit Disc Brake Models
    **Please Note On Some Models This Cable May Be Chassis Number Dependent – If There Are Any Doubts About The Suitability Of This Cable Please Do Contact Us Before Purchasing And We Can Double Check Against Your Vehicle Reg’ Prior To Shipping**
    [Please check your vehicle chassis number as this cable only fits -from Chassis Break “ch08394” onwards – applies to both Berlingo and Partner Vans!!]
    Brake Cable Length 1850 / 1510mm
    Fits RHD (UK) and LHD (European) Models


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    £13.00

    Peugeot Partner – Citroen Berlingo
    Rear RH (Drivers Side) – Drum Brake Cable
    Will Not Fit Disc Brake Models
    **Please Note On Some Models This Cable May Be Chassis Number Dependent – If There Are Any Doubts About The Suitability Of This Cable Please Do Contact Us Before Purchasing And We Can Double Check Against Your Vehicle Reg’ Prior To Shipping**
    [Please check your vehicle chassis number as this cable only fits -from Chassis Break “ch08394” onwards – applies to both Berlingo and Partner Vans!!]
    Brake Cable Length 1850 / 1510mm
    Fits RHD (UK) and LHD (European) Models


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    Citroen Berlingo MPV MF Rear Left Drum Brake Cable

    £13.00

    Citroen Berlingo Van (Box) – MPV
    Peugeot Partner – Partner Combispace Van (Box) – MPV
    Drum Brake Models – Rear Left Brake Cable
    Will Not Fit Disc Brake Models
    Brake Cable Length 1745 / 1405mm
    Fits RHD (UK) and LHD (European) Models


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    Citroen Berlingo Van M Box Rear Left Drum Brake Cable

    £13.00

    Citroen Berlingo Van (Box) – MPV
    Peugeot Partner – Partner Combispace Van (Box) – MPV
    Drum Brake Models – Rear Left Brake Cable
    Will Not Fit Disc Brake Models
    Brake Cable Length 1745 / 1405mm
    Fits RHD (UK) and LHD (European) Models


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    Peugeot Partner Van 5 Box Rear Left Drum Brake Cable

    £13.00

    Citroen Berlingo Van (Box) – MPV
    Peugeot Partner – Partner Combispace Van (Box) – MPV
    Drum Brake Models – Rear Left Brake Cable
    Will Not Fit Disc Brake Models
    Brake Cable Length 1745 / 1405mm
    Fits RHD (UK) and LHD (European) Models


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    Peugeot Partner Van 2008 MY Onwards Rear Left Drum Brake Cable

    £13.00

    Citroen Berlingo Van (Box) – MPV
    Peugeot Partner – Partner Combispace Van (Box) – MPV
    Drum Brake Models – Rear Left Brake Cable
    Will Not Fit Disc Brake Models
    Brake Cable Length 1745 / 1405mm
    Fits RHD (UK) and LHD (European) Models


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    Peugeot Partner Teepee MPV Rear Left Drum Brake Cable

    £13.00

    Citroen Berlingo Van (Box) – MPV
    Peugeot Partner – Partner Combispace Van (Box) – MPV
    Drum Brake Models – Rear Left Brake Cable
    Will Not Fit Disc Brake Models
    Brake Cable Length 1745 / 1405mm
    Fits RHD (UK) and LHD (European) Models